The bucket test
- Remove the pit lid. Pour a pail or two into the pit, slowly, so the float lifts. The motor should kick in, draw the pit down down to the off level and stop cleanly. Look out for a motor humming with no water moving, a float snagging on the side, or a pump that runs for a second and stops.
- Listen as it shuts off. A short thunk from the check valve is normal. A rush of water falling back into the pit means the check valve is not holding.
Look at the pit
- Debris, gravel and silt on the bottom of the pit get sucked into the intake. Clear what you can reach with the power off. If the pump sits directly on the pit floor, raising it on a flat brick reduces what it picks up.
- Check the power cord and the outlet. Pumps should be on a dedicated outlet, and a GFCI outlet that trips will silently disable the pump.
Quick checklist
- Pour water and watch the pump cycle
- Check the float moves freely
- Listen for the check valve
- Clear the outdoor discharge
- Test the battery backup
Follow the discharge
- Go outside and trace the discharge to its outlet. That end should be clear of snow and ice, unobstructed, and directing water away from the house. A discharge that dumps water right beside the foundation sends it straight back to the weeping tile.
- If the outdoor pipe froze over winter, clear it before relying on the pump.
The backup
- If you have a battery backup pump, unplug the main pump and refill the pit to make it work. The backup should start. Check the battery age; many last only a few years.
- Without a backup, and with a pit that fills fast during rain, a backup is worth considering, especially with a finished basement.
Richmond Hill note: most houses here sit on York Region municipal water with fairly hard supply, and many basements have a floor drain tied to the sanitary lateral. Mention both on the phone; it changes what goes on the truck.
Want a second opinion on your own pipes first? Dial (365) 363-1575; the person answering holds the wrench.