Jams and resets
- Under most units sits a small hex socket. Power off, an Allen key rotates the flywheel by hand and breaks loose the culprit, often a peach stone, a cap or a bone. Then the red reset button on the bottom is pressed and the unit is tested.
- If it trips again immediately, the motor may be failing or something is still caught. We look inside with a light before trying again.
Leaks
- Leaks at the top flange mean the sink mount needs resealing. Leaks at the side connections are usually loose clamps on the dishwasher hose or the discharge tube. Leaks from the bottom of the unit itself mean the internal seal has failed, and that is not repairable; the unit needs replacing.
- We dry everything with a towel, run water and watch with a flashlight, because water travels along the outside of the unit and drips from a lower point than where it starts.
Signs you need this
- Buzzing with no grinding
- A drip from the underside of the unit
- The reset button trips repeatedly
- Sink drains slowly on the disposal side
- Grinding noises that sound like metal
New units
- A replacement disposal is matched to your household use and to the electrical setup under the sink, whether it is plugged in or hard-wired. If you have a septic system, some brands make septic-friendly models. We also check that the discharge lines up with the trap so the drain does not need awkward fittings.
- If you are adding a disposal where there was none, an electrician may be needed for a switched outlet. We will tell you upfront.
How the job runs
- 1
Power is turned off and the unit is inspected.
- 2
Jams are freed by hand and the reset is tested.
- 3
Leaks are traced to the flange, the connections or the body.
- 4
Worn units are replaced and the drain is flow-tested.
Richmond Hill note: most houses here sit on York Region municipal water with fairly hard supply, and many basements have a floor drain tied to the sanitary lateral. Mention both on the phone; it changes what goes on the truck.
Want a second opinion on your own pipes first? Dial (365) 363-1575; the person answering holds the wrench.